The final days, minutes

I am sitting here in my room with loaded luggage hoping that I am not overweight and I am not forgetting anything. My trip in Korea is rapidly finishing, although I have a long trip ahead traveling from Incheon to Milwaukee.

Since the weather got nice on Wednesday, I have been filling my days with traveling around Seoul and meeting people. Friday and Saturday were especially enjoyable because they were relaxing and I got to see some particularly beautiful places, including Jogyesa Temple and Bukhan Mountain.

I have mixed feelings about leaving as expected. I am looking forward to returning home to my prairie dog, Calypso, my own bed and some more home cooked meals. Plus, Wisconsin is so lovely this time of year. But, I am sad to leave my friends, the excitement of Seoul and to simply know that this huge trip is done. I have had a strange feeling the whole time I have been here--torn between feeling like a resident and a visitor. Being in so many of the same areas and seeing many of my Korean friends, I felt almost like I live here, but then I had no routine. That is one of the reasons that on my final day in Korea I wanted to do something that I had never done before. So Suki and I went to Bukhan Mountain in the northern part of Seoul. I didn't expect much, but it was gorgeous. When you get on the outskirts of Seoul, you realize that the city is surrounded by large, rocky mountains. It took Suki and me about two hours to get to the mountain by subway and bus. The paths were surprisingly steep and difficult. Along the path, there was a gorgeous mountain stream (very tiny, but pure). At the base of the side of the mountain we arrived at was a very large Buddhist temple. It was hard to capture the image of this colorful temple with monks chanting and followers praying in front of massive mountain.




The last big thing I did Saturday was to go to Suki's family's home near my motel for dinner.I helped her mother make Korean dumplings called mandu. It was a delicious dinner of mandu soup and many homemade kimchi side dishes. Everything is home made by Suki's mother, even the soy sauce. Suki's brother, sister, niece and nephew were also there. Although they did not speak any English, it was a great experience getting to eat a homemade meal of traditional food.

Now I should finish getting ready for my 19 hours on planes and layovers and about a total of 27 hours of traveling. I will take with me from this place many more memories to share and many more photos. However, the memories to me feel like ordinary life.

Yesterday in photos

It's been a very busy few days with little time to write or upload pictures. The weather has finally gotten warmer and sunnier. On Wednesday, Suki and I hung out indoor shopping areas because the weather again was cold and rainy. We had a couple of great meals of doughy dumplings for lunch and seafood barbecue for dinner. The seafood barbecue was more of cooking clams on a half shell with seasoning and toppings.

When the weather finally turned really nice on Thursday, we went into Seoul to some very nice areas, including Insadong, the river and Hongdae. Insadong is a touristy area, but still is pretty and has a great traditional park next to it. The river is a newly created pathway. And Hongdae is a fashionable area near a university.

I have been having a great time and am so happy that the weather has improved. I can't believe that I have only one-and-a-half days left. I am waiting in my room right now to figure out some final details for a dinner tonight. I will soon head out to a traditional Korean Buddhist temple in Seoul called Jogyesa. Then I am meeting a former Canadian co-worker and a bunch of my Korean friends for a galbi dinner tonight.

There is so much else I'd like to share with you about my experiences I have been having this week, but I want to be enjoying my short time remaining in Korea. I will write more later. For now, here are some photos:

Making doughnuts in Insadong:


Park in Insadong:
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Suki and her new best friend in Hongdae:

Another great day, another early morning

I just can't seem to get on Korea time as I wake up early every morning. I had the best day of my trip so far yesterday and it went very late-to about 1:30 a.m. However, despite riding the subway around Seoul, shopping and hitting up some bars and restaurants late at night, I manged only to sleep until 5 a.m.

Yesterday will definitely be a day that stands out in my memory. I met with my former student Suki who has been living in Australia for three years but just arrived home for a visit this week. Then she will be moving to Paris to be with her French husband who she met Down Under. We had such a wonderful day catching up and shopping. We had two great meals and a snack together. (I'd post pictures, but I am unable to at the moment.)

At night we met Bruce for a seafood barbecue and beer. I was so extremely happy to see them both as they are some of the best friends I have ever met.

Today will be more shopping indoors in the morning and then hopefully sight seeing around Seoul in the afternoon and evening with Suki. We will again meet Bruce near his work for dinner. Unfortunately it has rained all day for the first three days of my trip. The rain has really hindered what I have been able to do. It's especially difficult because not only has it been rainy and at times very windy, it has also been only about upper 40s or 50 during the day. I did not pack enough warm clothes for this trip and will probably have to pick up a few more today. The sun is supposed to make a showing starting today. I really hope it does so I can see more of this country before I leave and can take more pictures to show you all back home.

There are so many great and silly things to take pictures of. Last night, Suki and I went to dinner at the "Miller" bar. The whole decor was Miller beer and Milwaukee's best. They did have Miller on tap, which was rather impressive for a country that has only three or four poor-quality beers. The bar was also across the street from a restaurant called the Sea Bank and it had the colors and similar logo to Citi Bank.

I realize now that it was foolish to feel so nervous about my visit to Korea because I have been having a wonderful time and feel like I am really getting immersed in the culture again. I fear that I am going to be bored when I return to Waukesha. At least it will be summer when there is so much to do and see, but even that pales in comparison to the constant throng of people to watch, the thousands of businesses crammed into a small area and huge subway system connecting a massive city of many neighborhoods. I can certainly hope that next time my separation from South Korea will not be as long as 3.5 years.

The journey

First, I'll start off by saying that I arrived safely.

The journey was rather relaxing for me after working a long and hectic week. I managed to sleep about 8-9 hours during the 10-11 hour flight from Detroit to Tokyo. It was easy to sleep on the plane with the movement, the sound of the engines and nothing really to do but read. My journey consisted of flying from Milwaukee to Detroit (3.5-hour layover) then to Tokyo (about a 3-hour layover) and then to Incheon (Seoul).
The flight was beautiful at times. I had a window seat and was able to see some of the scenery below because I think we flew lower than normal due to turbulence.
It was amazing to fly over Alaska. We passed over snow-covered mountains that did not look like they could support life. I really felt like I was part of a Discovery Earth episode.


As we flew over the Pacific Ocean toward Japan I was hoping that we would be able to see some whales, but alas, that did not happen. I did see many little boats chugging away (fishing boats?).
It was also interesting to compare airports. Detroit's is nice and bright and easy to navigate. But Tokyo's, as you'd imagine, was the coolest. On the walls there were banners that were replicas of ancient screens. There was even a white square sofa lounge area. It's hard to describe except to say it reminded me of something from a posh New York City club. The smoker's room was the coolest I ever saw - it looked like the trendiest of nightclubs. The tourist gift shops are really nice and they had several sushi restaurants.

I was able to eat 3.5 meals on the planes. For the Detroit-Tokyo flight, my main dish consisted of chicken with vegetables and mashed potatoes, shrimp, bread, brownie and salad. Not too bad! They even gave me a whole meal on the 2.5-hour flight from Japan to Korea.
Landing in Korea and getting out of the airport was really easy. No questions at customs, my luggage was some of the first off, no line at the money exchange, etc. The problem was my plane landed 15 minutes after the buses stopped. So, I hailed a cab, which cost more than I would have liked and I think the cabbie may have taken an extra 10 off of me claiming it was more expensive after midnight. Oh well, at least I arrived safely at my hotel and didn't have to spend the night at the airport.
I didn't get to shower like I wanted to when I arrived last night because I cannot figure out how to tun on the lights, TV or computer in the room. Luckily, there was a flashlight. I've tried all of the buttons to no avail. I thought even with everything being written in Korea in the room, I would have figure it out eventually. I really have no idea what I am missing. Thankfully, I brought my laptop and found a slow wireless network to connect to. Even though it is morning now, I am not getting much light into my room because it is right against another building. Also, it may be overcast today-I can't tell.
I will get the light situation figured out tonight after I have dinner with a Korean friend, Willy.
It's a really nice, clean room with everything I could need for this week and it is only costing me about $27 per night. There is a flat screen TV, computer with Internet, eating area, water cooler (hot and cold), coffee and mugs, mini fridge, a huge bath tub and lots of personal products-toothpaste, toothbrush, hair brish, lotion, perfume, hair dryer and condoms.It is in a very compact space of course. Good for a single person, but it would be more difficult for two people. There is an entry area too where you should leave your shoes.
The truth is most of these little hotels in Korea are used by couples who have no privacy at home because they live with their parents. So the hotels are often refered to as love motels.
I did feel like I was in the movie "Lost in Translation" last night as I rolled into town. There was a huge billboard on the side of the road with Pierce Brosnan advertising a casino.
The memories of what makes Korea so quirky also came back to me as I looked out the taxi's windows. There are many churches in Seoul and at night their crosses burn bright. They are these light-up crosses that appear to be red-as if they are on fire.It's really a rather eerie sight. Then as I drove into Bucheon, I could see all of the delivery food drivers on their scooters making deliveries. The streets of Bucheon (where I am staying and used to live) are hideous. They are dirty, smelly and littered. No wonder I panicked the first night I arrived here more than 3 years ago. The city looks nicer during the day, though. And Seoul proper is much nicer looking. It's enough to make a person dizzy, though, with all of the signs. There isn't an inch of space not covered along the street level. It's hard to truly capture with a camera, but I will try this week.
Today, I am off to explore Bucheon. I hope my favorite stores are still here.I may stop by my favorite mom and pop restaurant for lunch to see if they still recognize me. And my corner grocer...I wonder if he is still there? It is all very overhwelming. I would like to take the first day slow and leisurely, but with so little time and so much I need/want to do, I better keep moving.
But since Korea is the land of "morning calm" most places do not open until about 9 a.m. to 10 a.m. so I have a bit of time this morning to make instant coffee and eat granola bars.

Preparing for departure

It's been a long time since I wrote on Kat in Name Only - 2.5 years. But, it's been an even longer time since I lived in Bucheon, South Korea. Now, after a more than three years away from the country I am preparing to return for a whirlwind of a trip.

I leave Saturday morning, April 24, and return Sunday, May 2. I'll have six full days on the ground to see about a dozen people, gorge on Korean food and see the old stomping grounds.

The process of getting ready for this trip hasn't been as smooth or as easy as I would have liked. I have been putting in long days this week at work with several projects in the hopper. Last night I packed my bags. Tonight I must run to Southridge to get new contacts (cheap) and tomorrow I must hurry home after work to pack up Calypso (my prairie dog) and take her to my parents' house in Oconomowoc for safe keeping while I am gone. Then it's off to the airport shortly after 7 a.m. Saturday.I still have a couple of other loose ends to tie up before I leave, but hopefully it will all get done in time.

Preparing for this vacation has been a bit of a trip down memory lane. I found my subway pass and located my Korean phrase book. I looked up how to get from Osan to Bucheon via subway so my American friend can visit me. And there have been many e-mails between me and some of the best people I have ever known. It's amazing that after more than three years, there are this many former Korean students and friends who still want to make time to see me when I am there. It really touches my heart to know that my visit is so important to my Korean students that they are offering to take off from work and help me with arrangements.

I am going to be keeping this blog going for the next 10 days in case you want to see and read about the food I am eating, the sights I am seeing and the people I am meeting. While in Korea, I am going to be using a computer located in my hotel room. Well, off to the second to last day of work.

Simple moments = happy times

It is amazing how the simple things in life can mean so much to a person and bring them the purest of joys. This past week has been really stressful and busy, but during the times of great stress I have also discovered great moments of joy. There are the on-going joys like the support and love of my family and friends. Then there are the little joys that occur unexpectantly and last only briefly, but bring you the purest of joys that help to carry you through the day.

I have had several such joys over the past week and a couple of them had one thing in common: they were because of South Koreans.

I had my second tutoring session on Wednesday with my South Korean pupil. I am going to help her with her English writing and all around English skills. I am volunteering with the Literacy Council of Waukesha County and they matched me with Sujeong. She is new to the USA, but is married to an American man that she met in Seoul. Spending time with her brings so much happiness to my life. Her caring nature, eagerness and generosity in turn make me feel wonderful. On Wednesday, she made me chamchi kimbap and it was so delicious. Her friend, Yoon, also came for lunch. It was such an enjoyable lunch for me to be able to talk about Seoul with these two very kind people. Just thinking about it now makes me feel so happy.

The other little joy that occurred this week because of a South Korean friend just happened a few minutes ago. A former student of mine, Gyoung Dong just wrote me an e-mail telling me of his recent recognition for his poetry. He also sent me photos of his family. It is a great honor to be told of his literary success. He also shared some very kind words with me.

These simple human elements of our lives are really the best. They have extra meaning for me when I feel overwhelmed by stress. I do find the most joy in my life from human relationships and my relationship with nature.

The past two years has taught me something so important. And that is how wonderful Korean people are. I think that they have to be the most caring and generous of any nationality I have ever met. Their culture and approach to life is very different from Americans' in many ways, but there are many similarities too. The aspect that I like the most is how they welcome people into their lives so openly and will give of themselves so readily.

I feel so blessed tonight because of all my friends, who are from so many backgrounds and live in so many places, and for the unconditional love and support from them and my wonderful family.

Thank you all who have been there for me recently during my week of stress.


Quote:
"Patience and perserverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish."
--John Quincy Adams

At the crossroads again

Here I am again at a crossroads in my life's path. As soon as I figure things out lately, the rug is pulled out from under me and I am left scrambling for a plan, a job, money and confidence in my decisions. I feel okay today. That may be due to the spring-like atmosphere outside of my window or simply to more positive thinking. I guess going to church yesterday morning reminded me that I am not completely in control of my life. That I have just got to trust that things will work out for the best. Since I went to Korea, I also have the knowledge that I can handle just about anything. I also have a great support group that helps me when I feel helpless. I am keeping busy with newspaper stories, a book and a potential job. The only thing with the potential job is I am not sure if I want it. It would mean moving to Milwaukee and sort of starting over, when all I want to do this summer is completely start over. I really didn't expect things to be so complicated when I returned home from Korea. I miss my days in Korea when I had fewer responsibilities and I was more carefree. Even though I am not going to work right now, I feel weighed down by life's worries. Today is an exception. I feel more carefree and open to possiblities. I have just got to trust in myself and in the greater power that things will work out for the best.

Quote:
"The soul should always stand ajar, ready to welcome the ecstatic experience."
--Emily Dickinson

New Mission

My friend Kit told me about a great way to get your creative juices flowing each day. First thing in the morning, she sits down and writes three full pages by hand. She just writes about memories and anything that comes to mind. She says that this causes her to be much more aware of her day and her surroundings. It also helps her to approach everything more creatively. I was so inspired by her that I decided to do the same, but with a few alterations. I don't have to write right when I get up, but I should write in the morning and instead of 3 handwritten pages, I will do 1.5 single-spaced typed pages on my computer. I want to have my writing saved in my computer so I cut and paste it into any future stories or pieces that I write. Here is what I wrote today. It may be quite rough because you are not allowed to edit.

I still miss Korea so much when I think about it. I miss my friends and having so many people to do things with. I miss that each day was a little adventure. Things are so stagnant here in Ocon and I just want to get out of here. At least yesterday I took some pictures. I had Mom drop me off at the post office in the morning on her way to work and I walked home. I took about 100 pictures and that felt great.

I loved walking in Korea from station to a couple of stations down and taking lots of pictures of all of the surprising things. I wish that I would have taken even more pictures now of the things that I took for granted. I should have taken more pictures of the food and of the people. I realized at the time that I wasn’t taking enough pictures of people, but I have a difficult time with that most of the time. I am just too shy.

It’s interesting how an exotic life can feel normal after only a short time. I tell people stories here of things that happened to me in Korea, that to me don’t seem surprising, and they are amused by them. For example,

After spending a few hours sleeping and waiting in the emergency room at the hospital in Korea, my boss came back to check on me. It was about 9:30am. The group of four doctors and one nurse came over to my bed and one gave me my diagnosis. He said something to the effect that I had atypical pneumonia and a gastro viral infection, so I should take this medicine three times a day. No other directions or recommendations. I was tired and out-of-it, so I just accepted it. Then the doctor told Mrs. Cho in Korean what was wrong with me. As he began to talk, the room full of patients went quiet. The patients and their families, leaned forward and had a look of curiosity on their faces. They all wanted to know what was wrong with the Western white girl. I didn’t notice what their reaction was, but it didn’t surprise me at all that they would take such a concern in my diagnosis. For me, it was just life in as an expat in Korea.

Another story that I told my mom was about a day that I was waiting to meet Paddy by Bucheon station. A mentally retarded young man came up to me and asked where I was from. I told him that I was from the United States. He then began to sing the National anthem. I was taken aback that this man would have the whole song memorized and could sing it so well when most Americans can’t even sing it. Paddy arrived just as he was finishing up his song. The young man asked Paddy where he was from and Paddy said England, so the man started to sing the British national anthem and then he went straight into the Canadian national anthem. I guess that this guy had sung frequently for Paddy and he would sing again for me one day in November while I walked around Bucheon shopping center with Aaron. While surprising at first, I started to take experiences like this for granted.

I am trying to think of other things that I took for granted while living in Korea. One may be all the color everywhere. I was aware of the noise, crowds and energy but I took the colors for granted. I didn’t think that it was so much more colorful than the USA, but now that I am back here, things seem kind of lackluster. It is winter, so most things are in shades of white, gray, black and brown. In summer, we will have bright blue skies and lush green grasses and plants. But right now, things seem kind of dull in more ways than just the colors.

Quote:
"You take your material where you find it, which is in your life, at the intersection of past and present. THe memory-traffic feeds into a rotary up on your heard, where it goes in circles for a while, then pretty sooni magination flows in and the traffic merges and shoots off down a thousand different streets. As a writer, all you can do is pick a street and go for the ride, putting down things as they come to you."
--Tim O'Brien, "The Things They Carried"

The First Scary Posting

As my time in Korea is nearing completion, I am in a reflective mood. There are many things to say about Korea. My year in Korea has been one of the best experiences of my life; I have learned so much about myself and about Korean culture. I have grown as a person and like the personal changes that I have gone through. I now feel confident to travel all around the world. I wouldn't change my time in Korea at all.

I have gotten to know so many wonderful people from all around the world and I want to keep in touch with them; that is why I have created this blog. I hope that you will read it and comment. To all of my Korean friends: thank you for welcoming me to Korea and helping me to understand Korean culture and traditions. You have been such a valuable resource. I hope that you will all visit me in USA someday. (Just let me know when you are coming!)

To all of my non-Korean friends: thank you for sharing the wonders of Korea with me. You were there during the great, the good, the bad and the ugly. We shared so many laughs and smiles.

I was talking with Paul on the subway today about Korea (as we often do). I was talking about if I have any regrets about my time in Korea. I don't so much have regrets as I have some wishes.

*I wish that I would have traveled to Busan and Kyungju.
*I wish that I would have learned more Korean (mostly to impress family and friends back home)
*I wish that I would have traveled on the pink and yellow subway lines.
*I wish that I would have taken more pictures.
*I wish that I would have listened to more Korean music and seen more movies.
*I wish that I would have explored most of the stops on the subway system (I have an unfulfilled plan)
*I wish that I had a few more months here

I am sad to leave Korea, but I am excited to see family and friends that I have not seen in a year. This has been the first time living away from home, so it is time for me to reconnect with everyone and everything that I have left behind. I am filled with bittersweet emotions. Korea is home. USA is home. I will miss Korea with all its color, noise, crowds and energy. I am never bored here. Thank you friends!

Quote: I am enough of an artist to draw freely upon my imagination. Imagination is more important than knowledge. Knowledge is limited. Imagination encircles the world.
-from Albert Einstein